This time I restored the original SNES. This is the PAL version and it is quite badly yellowed and dirty both inside and outside. Inside also had some stains of something which I seemed to be yogurt or other dairy product. It had been poured in from the game slot and it caused some trouble with reading the games. Luckily most of the yogurt had missed the pins. These retro consoles are lot of fun to restore. Thanks for watching. More info can be found after the links. ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT:
SCREW DRIVER SET:
NINTENDO SECURITY BIT:
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE:
UV LED STRIP:
SOME OF MY OTHER TOOLS:
POWER FILE:
CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH:
CORDLESS DRILL:
BETTER ROTARY TOOL:
PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL:
2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS
MY FILMING GEAR:
MAIN CAMERA:
MAIN TRIPOD:
MICROPHONE:
VIDEO LIGHTS:
MAIN LENS:
CINEMATIC LENS:
WIDE ANGLE LENS:
GOPRO:
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The console was powering on but the games wouldn't work properly. sometimes there was no picture and only bad audio and sometimes the audio itself was fine but there was no picture. Only a couple of times I got it somewhat working but the picture and colors were still a little off.
I thought it had to be due to some sort of dirt or corrosion on the pins of the game slot. After opening it up I found loads of dust and dirt inside and the funniest part, some yogurt that had fallen down the game slot.
I used some isopropanol (isopropylic alcohol) to remove all the dirt and corrosion I found. Isopropanol is what is typically used for this because it doesn't contain almost any water and therefore it will not cause corrosion.
The main halves of the shell were also were yellowed. Something that is were common for the SNES due to teh type of plastic was used and the console heating up. I uesd hydrogen peroxide to de-yellow the parts. I thickened the hydrogen peroxide with gelatine so it wouldn't run off the shell immediately after it is applied. After that I wrapped the parts in cling wrap to prevent teh solution from evaporating. I also made a "solarium" from box, UV-led strip and aluminum. The aluminum is there to spread the light more evenly and to make it bounce around until it hits the shell. Nobody really known for sure what the chemical reaction behind this method called retrobrighting (or retr0brigting) is but tehre are some guesses about it online. UV-light and temperature seems to act as catalyst and speed up the process. The parts were almost done after less than a day but I had them in there for like 30 hours to be safe. After that I washed the parts and put the thing back together and works like a charm.
Thanks for reading all the way through.
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